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Articles

Portis Pizza, N1

4 days ago | braise.substack.com | Dominic Preston

London is going through a slice shop… well, not renaissance exactly, since that implies we ever had them in numbers before, but certainly a moment. In the last six months alone the guys from Detroit Pizza have opened Paulie’s, Michelin-starred Tom Kemble has pivoted to pizza at Spring Street, and Breadstall has expanded from a small stall to a full site in Soho.
The Spanish Pantry, by José Pizarro

6 days ago | braise.substack.com | Dominic Preston

I’ve never eaten at one of José Pizarro’s restaurants, but his name gets around. This is, admittedly, mostly his own doing: among his openings, both in the UK and abroad, you’ll find José, Pizarro, José Pizarro, Little José, and even José by Pizarro. It comes as some relief then that The Spanish Pantry, Pizarro’s sixth cookbook, doesn’t bear his name outside of the byline.
Tamila, N1

1 week ago | braise.substack.com | Dominic Preston

The Tamil Crown and The Tamil Prince are two of the tougher tables to get in north London. Which makes Tamila all the more a blessing: a casual offshoot of the acclaimed pair, a touch less vibey but all the easier to book as a result. It also seems to be expanding. After launching in Clapham, a second branch has now opened in the heart of King’s Cross, within spitting distance of its royal siblings. From a glance, you might not immediately recognise the familial connection though.
Rogue Sarnies, E2

2 weeks ago | braise.substack.com | Dominic Preston

Like Happy Days, Frasier, or even The Simpsons, Rogue Sarnies is that rare beast: a spinoff that’s utterly eclipsed its source. The sandwich spot began life as a hatch in the side of sharing plates set menu spot Rogues, itself a Covid pivot from two chefs who met working at Galvin La Chapelle, when London’s second lengthy lockdown forced the restaurant to shut temporarily. As restrictions ended, Rogues came back, but Rogue Sarnies had already grown too big to let shutter.
My favourite London sandwich shops in 2025

2 weeks ago | braise.substack.com | Dominic Preston

A little housekeeping before this week’s post: the paid Sunday pieces are moving to a fortnightly schedule, though don’t worry: the weekly free restaurant reviews aren’t going anywhere. Pretty simply, it’s because life’s been busy, I have a fulltime job (doing more writing!), and two posts a week is proving demanding. More than that though, I want to make sure Sunday posts — my cookbook reviews, recipes, favourite lists, and essays — get the time and attention they deserve from me.
Bun House, WC2

3 weeks ago | braise.substack.com | Dominic Preston

I’ve been eating at Bun House for almost a decade, ever since it first opened on Soho’s Greek Street back in 2017, popping in for pre-drink dinners and (back when it stayed open that late) post-drink bus snacks. It’s moved since then, spawned a tea house spin-off which has since shut, and last year they opened a second branch in Shoreditch with an inexplicable disco theme.
Recipe: Seeded sourdough rye bread

3 weeks ago | braise.substack.com | Dominic Preston

Meet the bread that Vivian thinks is “perfect.”I’ll admit, I’m not a natural fan of dense, dark rye breads like this myself — give me a big, soft, waxy sourdough any day — but they’re Vivian’s obsession, helped along by some time spent living in Berlin a few years ago. No rye loaf she could find in London would cut it though, so I set about making my own. I wanted it to be dense, but not dry, maintaining that waxy quality, and with the crunch of seeds in contrast.
Bad Manners, E1

1 month ago | braise.substack.com | Dominic Preston

When I wrote my guide to tacos a few weeks back, I mentioned that there were only two places in London I’d recommend anyone buy a burrito, and one of them was shut. Well, not any more — Bad Manners is back. Braise is a reader-supported publication. To receive new posts and support my work, consider becoming a free or paid subscriber. After a few weeks away, the breakfast-centric Mexican spot has decamped from a churchyard in Hackney to, well, a churchyard in Shoreditch.
Umai, by Millie Tsukagoshi Lagares

1 month ago | braise.substack.com | Dominic Preston

Umai is the best cookbook I’ve reviewed for Braise so far. I don’t just say that because it’s beautifully presented and easy to follow, for the variety of its Japanese recipes, for the fact that everything we’ve tried so far has come off wonderfully.
Raya, E17

1 month ago | braise.substack.com | Dominic Preston

I’ve written before about the somewhat chaotic information I try to glean about restaurants from my overly expansive Google Maps lists. A few months ago, frustrated after a few too many visits to restaurants that I couldn’t remember saving in the first place, I resolved to start using Maps’ notes feature to help track not just where to eat, but why. This has helped… to a point. Take last week’s visit to Raya, in Walthamstow.