Caroline Hatchett

New York

Food and Drinks Writer at Freelance

James Beard-nominated writer. Rabbit hole hunter. Senior editor @platemagazine. Words in @WaPoFood @foodandwine @bittersouth @gardenandgun @robbreport @liquor

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Articles

From Tiffany Lamps to Hoagie Halos: Stained Glass Makes a Comeback at Restaurants

1 week ago | foodandwine.com | Caroline Hatchett

Credit: Courtesy Gieves Anderson for Printemps New York A halo of pale yellow light frames a jar of Duke’s mayonnaise. Supported by clouds of emulsified egg and oil, the iconic condiment jar floats atop a classic deli mise en place: mottled salami, wavy bacon strips, a kaleidoscopic pickle, Swiss cheese, crimson tomato slices, a hoagie roll, lettuce leaves, and two green olives as eyes, staring into the beholder’s soul.
The flawless biscuit that took years to master

4 weeks ago | bbc.co.uk | Caroline Hatchett

Acclaimed musician Rhiannon Giddens spent years perfecting a flawless recipe for the iconic Southern food. Now, a new festival reveals the similar journeys of Black music and cuisine. "Womp, womp, womp." That's the sound, according to Grammy Award- and Pulitzer Prize-winning musician Rhiannon Giddens, of a sharp-rimmed glass cutting into just-right biscuit dough. Coming from Giddens' mouth, the timbre translates as a low note plucked from a double bass.
The flawless biscuit that took years to master

4 weeks ago | flipboard.com | Caroline Hatchett

1 day agoNot long ago, Rhiannon Giddens knew every Black string musician. The dedicated few were largely collaborators and colleagues, many of whom met a generation ago at the landmark Black Banjo Gathering in Boone, N.C. Giddens, the folk musician and recipient of all the accolades (Grammys, a Pulitzer, a …
Duck Pie as Signature at NYC’s Yuu

1 month ago | plateonline.com | Caroline Hatchett

A 12-course meal at Yuu crescendos with “Canard,” aka duck pie, inspired by Guy Savoy’s pastry-encased poulet de Bresse. “But I make [a pie] that’s more difficult than GuySavoy’s,” says Chef Yuu Shimano, once a saucier at the three-star restaurant. Shimano studied cuisine in his native Osaka before cooking for eight years in France, and his namesake Brooklyn restaurant is staunchly... Join for free to continue reading.
Stained Glass Is the Medium in This Fun Hoagie Homage in Philly

1 month ago | plateonline.com | Caroline Hatchett

A few years ago, Lily Feingold’s stained-glass baked ham started a bidding war at Gallerytessen, a charity auction hosted by Philadelphia’s Middle Child. Ultimately, it sold for $1,700 and marked the beginning of Feingold’s work with Philadelphia restaurants, including Meetinghouse, Seaforest Bakeshop, and Mom-Mom’s Kitchen. Middle Child got a Feingold original in January: a hoagie-themed pendant light, with “two doves... Join for free to continue reading.
Why Chefs Are Embracing This Old-School Savory French Pastry on Their Menus

1 month ago | msn.com | Caroline Hatchett

obelixchicagoRevisiting an @obelixchicago classic, our Squab Pithivier. Fresh squabs sourced from a group of co-op farms in Californias Central Valley. Aged for a week to concentrate its flavor. Wrapped in savoy cabbage, a generous slab of foie gras and a farce made with pistachio, black truffle, and the offal of the birds. A rich sauce Périgueux is made from the carcasses and wings reduced down with mirepoix, Madeira, red wine, port and more black truffle.
This Old-School French Technique Is Fueling a New Wave of Creativity in Restaurants

1 month ago | foodandwine.com | Caroline Hatchett

Pithivier pastry with a creamy sauce, served with a garnish of grated topping and green element on a white plate. Photo: Courtesy of Colby Rasavong for Bad Idea Chef Colby Rasavong stacked together a seared half-pound beef patty, pickled green tomatoes, and a slab of Velveeta. But instead of using a bun to transfer those classic American flavors from hand to mouth, he wrapped the ensemble first in a crèpe and then sesame-flecked puff pastry, which he baked until golden and sauced with bacon jus.
Why Chefs Are Embracing This Old-School Savory French Pastry on Their Menus

1 month ago | yahoo.com | Caroline Hatchett

Chef Colby Rasavong stacked together a seared half-pound beef patty, pickled green tomatoes, and a slab of Velveeta. But instead of using a bun to transfer those classic American flavors from hand to mouth, he wrapped the ensemble first in a crèpe and then sesame-flecked puff pastry, which he baked until golden and sauced with bacon jus.
For Texture, Character, and Finishing Power: All Hail Sea Salt

1 month ago | plateonline.com | Caroline Hatchett

Food For our March/April Salty issue, we explored techniques for salt-crusting, curing, and brining. We pondered the disappearance of salt shakers and salty bar snacks, and turned our attention to classically salty ingredients like country ham and bacalao. But I also wanted to talk to chefs about NaCl in its, arguably, most elegant and pleasing state: sea salt. So I opened my DMs to devotees of specific crunch levels and melting rates.
Gregory Gourdet’s Maison Passerelle Tells the Story of French Food Through Its Former Colonies

1 month ago | robbreport.com | Caroline Hatchett

When the glass door of Brass Riz & Grill Express opened, steam poured out into the rainy February afternoon. Gregory Gourdet waited inside, wearing head-to-toe black and standing next to a buffet with its hotel pans brimming. Gourdet, a Queens kid, grew up in a two-story brick and clapboard house a short drive from the restaurant, set in a Caribbean enclave just past JFK and nowhere close to a subway.