Caroline Newton

Dec 12, 2024 | bonappetit.com | Caroline Newton |Jennifer Choi

Rice flour, sweet beans, sugar, and water. These are the humble materials used to make wagashi—painstakingly crafted, bite-size tea snacks once prized by the Japanese imperial court. Practitioners who have trained in the tradition, which dates back to the Edo period (1603–1868), dedicate hours to grinding, kneading, and molding each component. When I first encountered pastry chef Phoebe Ogawa’s wagashi, I was blown away by the intricacy of each tender, miniature creation.