Dougald MacDonald

Executive Editor at The American Alpine Club

Editor-at-Large, Climbing Magazine at Active Interest Media

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Articles

The Line— Skiing the Tetons Enduro Traverse — American Alpine Club

2 weeks ago | americanalpineclub.org | Dougald MacDonald

In the evening of April 22, 2024, Teton guides Adam Fabrikant, Michael Gardner, and Brendan O’Neill started skinning up Death Canyon in Wyoming’s Teton Range, aiming for Buck Mountain, near the south end of the range. A little over 20 hours and seven peaks later, they skied off Teewinot Mountain and back to the valley floor to complete the Enduro Traverse—an unprecedented ski mountaineering adventure. Adam’s story about the Enduro will be in AAJ 2025. We’re offering a condensed version here.
How to Know If an Ice Pillar is Stable

2 months ago | climbing.com | Dougald MacDonald

Heading out the door? Read this article on the new Outside+ app available now on iOS devices for members! Download the app. Though beautiful and inviting, pillars are also intimidating. Their verticality leads to strenuous climbing, and the skinniest pillars are prone to collapse if conditions aren’t just right.
The Line — Mark Westman’s Long Quest to Climb Mt. Russell — American Alpine Club

Sep 2, 2024 | americanalpineclub.org | Dougald MacDonald

Mark Westman has been climbing in the Alaska Range for nearly three decades and was a Denali Mountaineering Ranger for ten years. He has attempted Mt. Russell, on the southwest edge of Denali National Park, three times by three different routes over 27 years. The third time was the charm, as he and Sam Hennessey raced to the summit in a single day in late April.
The Line: Global Ambition — American Alpine Club — American Alpine Club

Aug 18, 2024 | americanalpineclub.org | Dougald MacDonald

How a professor of mechanical engineering at Seattle University solved a geographic mystery in Uzbekistan and made the first known ascent of that nation’s highest peak. The peak is No. 141 in his quest to summit the high point of every country in the world. Plus: attempting Everest, climbing Kangchenjunga, completing the “Seven ’Stans,” and becoming a Snow Leopard—just a few recent accomplishments in the very busy life of Eric Gilbertson.
The Line — July 2024 — American Alpine Club

Jul 17, 2024 | americanalpineclub.org | Dougald MacDonald

It’s prime season for climbing in the high peaks of the western United States, so we’re sharing six brand-new mountain routes from six states around the West. AAC Members:Get a Sneak Preview of the AAJ right now! AAC members can now download a PDF of the complete 2024 AAJ. Log in at your member profile and click the Publications tab to download your sneak preview. Physical copies of the 2024 AAJ will start going into the mail next month.
The Line — June 2024 — American Alpine Club

Jun 19, 2024 | americanalpineclub.org | Dougald MacDonald

With Father’s Day just past, we’re sharing a few stories of multi-generational climbing families that are featured in the upcoming 2024 AAJ (plus one from the archives). Mt. Wilson and the Aeolian WallAiding the new route's huge roof Danny Urioste taking it to the topJoanne and Jorge Urioste are legends of Red Rock Canyon, Nevada, having established many classic routes (Crimson Chrysalis, Epinephrine, Dream of Wild Turkeys, Levitation 29, and on and on).
The Line — May 2024 — American Alpine Club

May 21, 2024 | americanalpineclub.org | Dougald MacDonald

Most American Alpine Journal (AAJ) stories cover climbs from the prior year. But in some parts of the world, where January and February are prime for climbing—Patagonia, Antarctica, parts of Africa—we to do our best to report the latest ascents. With that in mind, here are a few stories about recent climbs that will appear in the 2024 AAJ—plus one ski descent—from four different continents.
Why Do So Many Climbers Not Wear Helmets?

May 12, 2024 | climbing.com | Dougald MacDonald

Heading out the door? Read this article on the new Outside+ app available now on iOS devices for members! Download the app. This article was originally published in 2013 and has been updated where relevant—Ed.Beth Rodden didn’t expect trouble on the on Yosemite’s Middle Cathedral Rock. After all, the 33-year-old superstar had free climbed the Nose of El Cap and put up the Valley’s hardest crack climb, the then-unrepeated 5.14c Meltdown.
The Line — April 2024 — The American Alpine Club

Apr 20, 2024 | americanalpineclub.org | Dougald MacDonald

The 2024 AAJ has just gone to press, which means we’re on schedule to deliver AAC publications at the end of this summer. (It takes a number of months to print and ship the thousands of copies of this 368-page book.) In the meantime, we plan to share stories from AAJ 2024 in “The Line” throughout this spring and summer. Let’s start at the back. The back cover of this year’s book features four photos from various stories that will appear inside AAJ 2024. Here is a preview.
The Line — Kichatna Special — The American Alpine Club

Mar 7, 2024 | americanalpineclub.org | Dougald MacDonald

Alaska season is almost upon us, and this issue of The Line is focused on Alaska’s legendary Kichatna Mountains. Four first ascents in the Kichatnas from April and May 2023 will be featured in the upcoming AAJ. Here are highlights of those climbs, including a custom story-map from AAC partner OnX (see “Explore These Routes” below).