E. J. Clery

Oct 9, 2024 | the-tls.co.uk | Juliette Bretan |Seamus Perry |Nicola Upson |E. J. Clery

Promising comfort is what a good stew should offer – but boeuf en daube, from Provence, with its cragged hunks of meat bespangled with olives and doused in shimmering, sepia-coloured broth, yields (if cooked correctly) exceptional pleasures. Or at least Mr Bankes in To the Lighthouse thinks so: “He had eaten attentively. It was rich; it was tender. It was perfectly cooked”.