Kem Nunn

Jul 13, 2024 | surfer.com | William Finnegan |Kathy Lette |Paul Theroux |Kem Nunn

Surf literature isn't, always, an oxymoron. And sure there’s a load of books out there in the Amazon warehouses that depict surfing in all its forms. Autobiographies, biographies, coffee-table beauties, travel guides, and how-tos.  Yet quality surfing literature is thinner on the ground. Surfing, for some inexplicable reason, doesn’t always lend itself to great works of art.