Michael Ruhlman

New York, Providence

Contributor at Freelance

Writer at Ruhlman's Newsletter

writer, cook, author of Ruhlman's Twenty, Charcuterie, Ratio, Soul of a Chef and other books.

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Articles

The Power of Flake

5 days ago | ruhlman.substack.com | Michael Ruhlman

April 20th was Ann’s and my eighth wedding anniversary. Easter.
You May Ask Yourself...

1 week ago | memoirland.substack.com | Michael Ruhlman

I’m a child of the Midwestern suburbs, 1970s Ice-Storm-style suburbs, a land of spacious houses on carpets of grass, shaded by maple and oak and sycamore trees. My home for most of my life. I now live in a 411-square-foot studio apartment in Greenwich Village with my second wife, Ann, and two cats. How did I get here? I’m a writer of books and articles, the majority about food and cooking and chefs, for which I’ve won three James Beard Awards and a Best American Food Writing Award.
My Five Things

1 week ago | ruhlman.substack.com | Michael Ruhlman

I’ll eventually shut up about onion rings but, sorry, along with raindrops on roses and whiskers on kittens, these are a few of my favorite things. To try to get to the bottom of my onion ring obsession, my colleague Jonathan Dressler and I spent an afternoon with Michael Cecchi and Chef Cesar, learning how to make the city’s most perfect version of this addictive preparation. Jonathan is putting the film together now and I’ll be eager to post it, along with the recipe, when it’s done.
Tonkatsu

2 weeks ago | ruhlman.substack.com | Michael Ruhlman

Throughout my youth, when Mom, Dad, and I sat down to dinner, I wouldn’t get more than two bites into the meal before Dad, with a happy grin, asked us, “What should we have for dinner tomorrow?” Ann’s father was the same way. These guys loved to eat. Ann and I are the same, but more often that not (because our schedules change so much throughout the week), that question comes in the morning.
Below 14th Street ... NoHo

3 weeks ago | ruhlman.substack.com | Michael Ruhlman

If you’re planning to be in Noho—that odd nowhere land, a trapezoid bounded by Astor Place and Houston at top and bottom, between Bowery and Broadway—I have four outstanding restaurants to consider. Say you’re seeing a show at The Public Theater. Or seeing a movie at the Angelika. Or just want to go, as you should! One of them we had never tried, though it has been open since 2016.
Islay, Scotland

1 month ago | ruhlman.substack.com | Michael Ruhlman

We arrived Islay, Scotland, a small island in the Inner Hebrides, at 6 pm after a twenty-two hour journey (JFK—>Amsterdam—>Glasgow—>Islay), in time for our 7 pm dinner reservation. Islay time. I snapped a pic of Ann on the tarmac with the ocean, beach, and surf behind her, then we tugged our roller bags across a two lane road, up a long gravel driveway to our accommodations, the lovely BnB, Glenegedale.
Arriving Islay …

1 month ago | ruhlman.substack.com | Michael Ruhlman |Ann Hood

We’ve just arrived Islay, an island 12 miles north of Northern Ireland in the Inner Hebrides of Scotland, lured by our favorite spirit, the smoky, peaty whiskies of this rugged land, population just over 3,200. There’s something enormously satisfying about going to the source of the food and drink you love. To a place like Islay. The uniquity of this place (new word for me, thank you Anu Garg) is not evident until you are actually standing in the mud, inhaling the peat smoke.
Viewing recommendations ...

1 month ago | ruhlman.substack.com | Michael Ruhlman

Subscribe to Ruhlman's Newsletter to keep reading this post and get 7 days of free access to the full post archives.
Martini Manifesto

2 months ago | ruhlman.substack.com | Michael Ruhlman |Robert Simonson |Laura Lippman

This week I got a letter from a friend describing his martini and tacitly admonished me for adding water to my straight-from-the-freezer gin, as if it were somehow unmanly to do so. I was inordinately annoyed—inordinately because, really, who cares? To each his own. But it got me thinking about why the Martini inspires so much emotion. What would seem an innocuous combination of gin and vermouth has inspired countless books on the subject, essays, even poems.
Of Eggs and Avocados ...

2 months ago | ruhlman.substack.com | Michael Ruhlman |Ruth Reichl |Ann Hood

We’ve just returned from the beautiful colonial city of San Miguel de Allende, 170 miles NW of Mexico City. It was my first time and Ann’s first time at the writers’ conference. John Irving opened the conference, reading from his forthcoming novel, Queen Esther. And, happily, among the keynotes was , who gave a fabulous presentation combining her memoirs and her fiction. If there is a better ambassador for the importance of writing about food, I don’t know him or her.