Robert Sietsema

New York

Writer at Robert Sietsema's New York

Writer at Freelance

34 years of writing about food in New York City, especially food that you can afford.

Articles

Carnitas Is King of the South Bronx

3 weeks ago | robertsietsema.substack.com | Robert Sietsema

You may remember that before Carnitas Hernandez, the city’s most famous carnitas were found at a little storefront in the South Bronx called Carnitas El Atoradero. It was presided over by Lina Chavez, who supervised a crew of women who congregated around a bubbling cauldron like a scene Macbeth. And the carnitas — which contained tidbits of skin and sinew — were spectacularly good.
The Two-Star Mexican Restaurant in Murray Hill You've Never Heard Of

3 weeks ago | robertsietsema.substack.com | Robert Sietsema

Founded in 1959, El Parador (“The Inn”) is the oldest Mexican restaurant in New York City. It appeared at a time when Mexican restaurants were virtually nonexistent here, but Spanish restaurants — some dating to the time of the Spanish Revolution — were plentiful.
My 5 Favorite Tacos in NYC

3 weeks ago | robertsietsema.substack.com | Robert Sietsema

The taco scene has exploded over the last couple of years with all sorts of examples we’d never seen before at high and low price points. I try to eat a taco everywhere I go that I’ll often buy from a window or a truck and eat while I’m on the way to another restaurant. Since I’m eating them so often, my five favorites change week-by-week. Here are the tacos I’m dreaming about now.
The Next Viral Sensation From the Inventor of the Cronut

3 weeks ago | robertsietsema.substack.com | Robert Sietsema

Papa D’Amour opened south of Union Square at 64 University Place last week. I’ve been haunting the premises, dodging lines that can extend to 20 minutes and more, and eating my way around the menu. Ansel, you’ll remember, was the inventor of the Cronut, which debuted on Mother’s Day, 2013. It was meant to be a one-day wonder but turned into a viral sensation. Since then, he’s been trying to duplicate its success with other quirky baked goods.
The Essential Barbecue Restaurants of NYC

4 weeks ago | ny.eater.com | Robert Sietsema

Summer is almost upon us, and hardwood barbecue beckons. A hefty pork rib or pink-ringed slice of fatty brisket is delicious, whether you’re feasting in an historic barbecue storefront with the smell of smoke in your nostrils, or sprawled on a blanket in a park with friends at a picnic. New York City has come a long way from the days when sauce-slathered pork ribs baked in the oven were considered barbecue.
The Signature Dish of Senegal Has Become a Harlem Favorite

1 month ago | robertsietsema.substack.com | Robert Sietsema

Thiebou djenn, the national dish of SenegalThiebou djenne (“pronounced cheb-oo-dzen,” and spelled many different ways) is agreed to be the national dish of Senegal. But let’s call it cheb for short, the name used by most of its adherents. Senegal lies at Africa’s westernmost point, where it sticks its broad chin out into the Atlantic. Coastal areas and …
5 Can't-Miss Hot Dog Destinations

1 month ago | robertsietsema.substack.com | Robert Sietsema

Our collection of places specializing in franks in the five boroughs has become rather slender. Most represent the city’s classic hot dog form — I’m talking Gray’s Papaya and its distinguished ilk: thin, griddled, all-beef franks in a natural casing, smeared with mustard and heaped with sauerkraut or sweet stewed onions. But Jersey is a different hot dog land, parsed into territories depending on how the sausages are cooked and dressed.
The Best Duck in Chinatown

1 month ago | robertsietsema.substack.com | Robert Sietsema

Everyone who visits Chinatown is regaled by the beautiful bronzed ducks hanging in the windows in casual and fancier establishments, often over rice with a sauce of drippings and soy. But look closely, and you’ll see the ducks are not always the same. Some have skins that gleam crisply, others are a paler or darker shade of brown, and still others appear more flattened. Here is a primer on the three kinds of ducks found in Chinatown and where to get them.
Raw Crab Grabs the Spotlight at the New Fish Cheeks

1 month ago | robertsietsema.substack.com | Robert Sietsema

Even for those with jaded palates, every once in a blue moon a dish comes along so good it makes them jump up and shout. A friend and I encountered one of those the other night at the new Fish Cheeks, located in Williamsburg at 661 Driggs Avenue, at the corner of Metropolitan Avenue.
10 Great Cheap Eats Destinations in NYC, Volume 3

1 month ago | robertsietsema.substack.com | Robert Sietsema

This bimonthly column features cheap eats worth a trip from any corner of the city. Note that seating may be rudimentary or almost non-existent. Check out the first and second editions of this column. Shu Jiao Fu Zhou295 Grand Street, ChinatownThis cluttered storefront has rapidly become the neighborhood’s favorite cheap eats destination, beloved of visitors and denizens alike. Study the menu on the wall and order soups, noodle soups, or dumplings, some involving offal, but most not.