Alpinist Magazine

2 weeks ago | alpinist.com | Derek Franz

Whenever there is an ascent that breaks away from expected norms in terms of tactics, style, difficulty, whatever—it is usually worth a second look, if for no other reason than to better understand its implications. A recent example came across my desk on March 21, regarding an odd “mixed-style” (my words) free ascent of D7 (IV 5.11+) on the Diamond of Longs Peak (14,255′) in Rocky Mountain National Park.

1 month ago | alpinist.com | Derek Franz

Colorado climbers Jesse Huey, Matt Segal and their Canadian friend Quentin Roberts recently completed a winter, mixed-style free ascent of D7 on the Diamond of Longs Peak (Neniisoteyou’u, 14,255′). Though they used ice axes to dry tool the thin cracks of the 5.11+ route, they did not use crampons to avoid leaving scratch marks on one of the state’s most classic alpine climbs. There were also short sections that required bare hands to climb. All three climbed the ca.

1 month ago | alpinist.com | Derek Franz

[This Sharp End story originally appeared in Alpinist 89 (Spring 2025), which is now available on newsstands and in our online store. Only a small fraction of our many long-form stories from the print edition are ever uploaded to Alpinist.com. Be sure to pick up the hard copies of Alpinist for all the goodness!–Ed.]Alice laughed. “… One can’t believe impossible things.” “I daresay you haven’t had much practice,” said the Queen. “When I was your age, I always did it for half-an-hour a day.

Dec 14, 2024 | alpinist.com | Derek Franz

[This story originally appeared in Alpinist 88 (Winter 2024-25), which is now available on newsstands and in our online store. Only a small fraction of our many long-form stories from the print edition are ever uploaded to Alpinist.com. Be sure to pick up the hard copies of Alpinist for all the goodness!–Ed.]EGO IS A SLIPPERY, strangely powerful thing. To be alive is to have an ego. There is no avoiding it. Any climber worth their salt must understand their relationship with ego.

Dec 10, 2024 | alpinist.com | Derek Franz

The annual Bozeman Ice Festival kicks off tonight, Tuesday, December 10, with a free Community Night hosted by the American Alpine Club at 6 p.m. at the Lockhorn Cider House. The festival officially starts Wednesday, December 11, and continues through Sunday, December 15, with a variety of events, ranging from ice climbing clinics in Hyalite Canyon to entertainment in town, including presentations by top climbers, film screenings and parties.