Chris Arnade Walks the World

Chris Arnade Walks the World

Reports and images from strolls across the globe.

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Walking Hokkaido: From Sapporo to Tomakomai

1 week ago | walkingtheworld.substack.com | Chris Arnade

(This is my fourth long walk in Japan. The prior eight posts from those trips: From Tokyo to Takasaki, A retreat to Niigata, A pointless little Japan story, From Akashina to Fuji, Walking Fuji, Playgrounds and manhole covers, From Fukuoka to Nagasaki, Burnout in Japan)Japanese cities are not pretty, and Sapporo might be the ugliest.
Forty eight hours in Montreal, Logistics of Long Walks, Bad Delta, and Turtles

2 weeks ago | walkingtheworld.substack.com | Chris Arnade

(I will be in Sapporro from Friday to Tuesday, then walking/riding-trains to Muroran on the south coast of Hokkaidō. Before returning home I’ll make my now normal stop in Seoul, from Wednesday the fourth to the eighth. If you are around, join me for a walk in Japan, or if in Seoul, for a night at the Woodstock vinyl bar in Sillim.)Montreal is good, very good.
Is it Euro-poor, or Ameri-poor?

3 weeks ago | walkingtheworld.substack.com | Chris Arnade

My last morning in Italy was in a distant suburb of Milan, my plans for a low-stress travel day upended by a rail strike. Determined to get food before the long maze of international travel began, I headed to the plaza at six a.m., the one with the six-hundred-year-old Renaissance sanctuary, not the one with the five-hundred-year-old Baroque basilica, to try and find something, anything really, to eat.
A retreat to Chiari, and then pain. Lots of pain

1 month ago | walkingtheworld.substack.com | Chris Arnade

(This is my second piece on walking Lombardy. The first piece is on walking from Milan to Brescia.) I was five miles outside of Brescia, hiking through a corn field towards Montichiari, when I knew I might be in trouble. Contrary to all the pre-trip weather reports not only wasn't there any rain, but there wasn't a single cloud in the sky.
Very low tech high tech travel

1 month ago | walkingtheworld.substack.com | Chris Arnade

Next week I'm going to set off from Milan to try and walk the two hundred miles to Padua. This will be my tenth long-distance trek, which I written about before, and I prefer these move-every-day-with-everything-on-my-back trips, but organizing them is immensely frustrating.
The unbearable lightness of Korean cute

1 month ago | walkingtheworld.substack.com | Chris Arnade

I’ve written about Seoul five previous times (Walking Seoul part 1, part 2, part 3, I could live in Seoul, and Seoul Stopover), so for a more positive perspective, please read those. I love Seoul, which is why I keep coming back, beginning or ending all my Asia trips there. If actions speak louder than words, then Seoul is my favorite city in the world, since I’ve now visited it seven times in the last four years. I love Seoul because it’s functional at a level few global cities are.
Walking Xi'an (China)

2 months ago | walkingtheworld.substack.com | Chris Arnade

(My three prior China pieces —Walking Shanghai, walking Beijing, and the more reflective piece, Beijing versus Shanghai.)I arrived in Xi'an worried I wasn't going to be able to eat a proper dinner. My flight from Tashkent landed at nine thirty, which given my prior Chinese experience probably meant I'd get to my hotel as everything was closing. But Xi'an is very different from Beijing and Shanghai.
Walking Tashkent (Uzbekistan)

2 months ago | walkingtheworld.substack.com | Chris Arnade

I try not to judge a city before walking it. Despite that, I was still pretty sure Tashkent would be only a slight variation of Bishkek, since Uzbekistan and Kyrgyzstan share so much history, culture, and geography. Spending nights on Google Maps, searching the limited street views available for Tashkent, added more weight to my conviction, and so I packed and prepared for a cold, dirty, smog-filled, crowded experience and instead arrived to one of the cleanest, most chill cities I've ever walked.
A German Officer (and Jew) in 1930s China

2 months ago | walkingtheworld.substack.com | Chris Arnade

(I’ve written a little about my childhood, about how our large family traveled extensively. That is why I was born in Spain, went to kindergarten in Nigeria, and spent months in Eastern Europe in 1975.
Beijing versus Shanghai, Pastoralism as key to civilization, and why I travel (again)

Mar 5, 2025 | walkingtheworld.substack.com | Chris Arnade |Yu Chen

I taped a conversation with Tyler Cowen last week and the first question he asked me was whether I preferred Shanghai or Beijing and I had no answer. It was an appropriate question since I was still jet lagged from having just come from Asia, but what struck me the most during my two short times in China is how much everything seemed the same.

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