
Michael Apstein
Columnist at Wine Review Online
James Beard Award-winning wine writer. https://t.co/K5gdfoQEAE. https://t.co/LpwQhRkPHi. https://t.co/kPiMz4EBag. Wine judge. Asst Prof Med at Harvard Med School
Articles
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1 week ago |
winereviewonline.com | Michael Apstein
This delightful light red is actually masquerading as a rosé. Made entirely from Cirò’s major red grape, Gaglioppo, it captures your attention with marvelous aromatics. The power and intensity characteristic of Gaglioppo appears in the body of this deliciously chewy wine. On the spectrum of rose, it lies on the opposite end from the pale-colored and often innocuous Provençal rosés. Fruity, sure, but not too, this hearty Rosé, is not a simple sipper.
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1 week ago |
winereviewonline.com | Michael Apstein
You might think that a white wine from sun-drenched and hot Calabria would be heavy. Not Librandi’s lively and vibrant Cirò Bianco. Made entirely from Greco Bianco, this fragrant beauty is fermented and aged exclusively in stainless steel tanks to capture it bright melon-y aspect. The clean and crisp mid-weight white is a great choice this summer as both a refreshing aperitivo and to accompany most anything from the sea. 91 Michael Apstein
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1 week ago |
winereviewonline.com | Michael Apstein
Maison Drouhin, one of Burgundy’s most reliable négociants, shows the house’s talents with their low prestige wines, like this one. Every producer should make a stellar Grand Cru Burgundy, like Bonnes Mares, which often retails above $300 a bottle, but it takes real skill to craft an authentic Bourgogne, which is what Drouhin’s has done with their 2022. Delicate and elegant, but not lacking substance, it’s a fabulous introduction to the charms and allure of Burgundy.
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1 week ago |
winereviewonline.com | Michael Apstein
Pinot Noir from Alsace has always flown under the radar. From my long experience with Hugel’s, I can say theirs are always top-notch when young, like this one, and develop magnificently with bottle age. The mid-weight 2023 delivers red crunchy fruit and a touch of spice, all supported by mild tannins. It has the intriguing, savory, “not just fruit” quality I love about Pinot Noir. It packs more enjoyment than its pale red color, meager 12 percent stated alcohol, and bargain price suggest.
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1 week ago |
winereviewonline.com | Michael Apstein
The thick skins of Gaglioppo, replete with tannins, are responsible for the robust character of the reds from the Cirò DOC. Librandi, still family-run, is one of the leaders in the region. This wine, their flagship red, is made entirely from Gaglioppo grown in the Cirò and Cirò Marina communes, the historic heart of the DOC. Only wines made from grapes grown in these two zones can be labeled Cirò Classico.
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