Luke Leitch

London

Writer at Freelance

A writer at large in London.

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Articles

Pitti Uomo : Homme Plissé Issey Miyake, Post Archive Faction et Niccolò Pasqualetti invités de la 108e édition du salon de la mode masculine

6 days ago | vogue.fr | Luke Leitch |Alexandre Marain

Homme Plissé Issey Miyake, Post Archive Faction et Niccolò Pasqualetti dévoileront leurs nouvelles collections lors de la 108e édition du Pitti Uomo, le salon de la mode masculine le plus réputé au monde, qui se tiendra du 17 au 20 juin 2025. A lire aussiDu 11 au 14 juin 2024, Florence a vibré au rythme du Pitti Uomo, le salon de la mode masculine le plus important au monde. Voici tout ce qu'il faut retenir de cette saison riche en événements.
In search of a renaissance, luxury descends upon Italy

1 week ago | voguebusiness.com | Luke Leitch

Become a Vogue Business Member to receive unlimited access to Member-only reporting and insights, our Beauty and TikTok Trend Trackers, Member-only newsletters and exclusive event invitations. “You shall have the universe: [just] leave Italy for me.” Nearly 180 years after that line was coined in Verdi’s Attila, the luxury industry feels the same way: in 2025 there will be more cruise shows in Italy than any other nation.
Matty Bovan Fall 2025 Ready-to-Wear Collection

2 weeks ago | vogue.com | Luke Leitch

CoverageCollection“There’s always a dark line running through my work,” said Matty Bovan. Of that specific-to-him fil noir, he added: “I enjoy an edge to the pretty: a dark underbelly you maybe just glimpse.”Bovan applies his handmade practice to painstakingly curated deadstock flotsam in order to weave fantastical wearable worlds.
Ο Jean Paul Gaultier επιλέγει τον Duran Lantink ως creative director

4 weeks ago | vogue.gr | Laure Guilbault |Vogue Greece |Luke Leitch |Radhika Seth

Από τότε που ο Jean Paul Gaultier αποχώρησε από τις πασαρέλες το 2020, ο ομώνυμος οίκος, που ανήκει στον όμιλο Puig, υιοθέτησε ένα μοντέλο δημιουργίας με εκ περιτροπής σχεδιαστές, προσκαλώντας κάθε σεζόν έναν διαφορετικό σχεδιαστή να επιμεληθεί τη συλλογή υψηλής ραπτικής. Οι Chitose Abe, Glenn Martens, Olivier Rousteing, Haider Ackermann, Julien Dossena, Simone Rocha, Nicolas Di Felice και Ludovic de Saint Sernin βρίσκονταν ανάμεσα σε αυτούς.
Duran Lantink 奪下 Woolmark Prize：新一代叛逆鬼才，他如何顛覆時尚規則？

1 month ago | vogue.com.tw | Luke Leitch |Travis Hung

「謝謝！對我來說，發聲很重要。我一直都不是安靜的人，喜歡混搭、勇往直前。但現在比以往任何時候都更需要激進一點，因為如果我們不突破界限，那我們究竟在做什麼？」 Duran Lantink 今晚在米蘭剛剛獲得 Woolmark Prize，並由 Donatella Versace 和 Ib Kamara 親自頒獎。他們也是本屆評審之一，而這個時尚界歷史最悠久、影響力最深遠的獎項，曾在 1950 年代見證 Karl Lagerfeld、Valentino Garavani 和 Yves Saint Laurent 的誕生。今年的獎金高達 30 萬澳元（約 18.7 萬美元），這筆金額反映了 Woolmark 作為澳洲美麗諾羊毛推廣機構的角色。Woolmark 執行長 John Roberts 指出，目前羊毛產業正面臨嚴峻挑戰——自疫情以來，羊毛價格已下跌 40%，產量則在過去兩年減少 20%。如果說現在有人能為羊毛產業帶來聲量，那非 Lantink 莫屬。自 2016 年創立品牌以來，他的設計便備受矚目——2018 年為 Janelle Monáe《Pynk》MV...
How Duran Lantink won the Woolmark Prize

1 month ago | voguebusiness.com | Luke Leitch

This article first appeared on Vogue. “Thank you! It was important for me to be loud. I mean, I’ve always been not very quiet — mixing things and really, really going for it. But I think now more than ever, it’s important to be a bit more radical. Because if we’re not being radical, then what are we doing?”So said Duran Lantink in Milan on Wednesday evening, just moments after being awarded the Woolmark Prize on stage by Donatella Versace and Ib Kamara.
How Duran Lantink Won the Woolmark Prize

1 month ago | vogue.com | Luke Leitch

Ib Kamara and Donatella Versace presented Duran Lantink with the 2025 Woolmark PrizePhoto: GUINDANI“Thank you! It was important for me to be loud. I mean I’ve always been not very quiet: mixing things and really, really going for it. But I think now more than ever, it’s important to be a bit more radical.
Issey Mikaye Homme Plissé to Show Nomadically, Starting With Pitti Uomo This June

1 month ago | vogue.com | Luke Leitch

Photo: Isidore Montag / Gorunway.comOf the nine brands produced by the Issey Miyake design studio in Japan, Homme Plissé has become a firm favorite since its introduction to the Paris Fashion Week calendar in 2019. Now the Japanese company has announced that Plissé is to go on the road for good, showing nomadically and out of season.
Acne Studios 2025 秋冬系列：Björk 的熊熊世界，時尚邏輯的超現實探險｜巴黎時裝週

1 month ago | vogue.com.tw | Luke Leitch |Travis Hung

“There's definitely, definitely, definitely no logic to human behavior. But yet so, yet so irresistible.”Björk 在〈Human Behavior〉中的這句歌詞或許不完全適用於 Jonny Johansson 為 Acne Studios 設計的 2025 秋冬系列——然而，這場秀的時尚邏輯，正是由這首歌塑造的。Johansson 重溫了這支充滿童話感的 MV，其中的熊角色成為靈感起點，甚至 Björk 本人也親自參與，為這場秀重新編排了這首經典歌曲。時尚邏輯？不如來點衝動！Johansson 以毛絨絨的 mohair 針織與 Steiff 絨毛布料，打造出仿若填充玩偶般誇張肩線與豐滿上臂的外套與洋裝，呈現「熊」的形象——他暗示，這頭熊象徵著自己從鄉村踏入城市時的心理狀態。此外，半透明的熊印花雪紡長裙、帶流蘇的仿舊丹寧套裝，以及超大尺寸毛氈靴，都像是 Johansson 內心「熊性」的一聲吼叫。
Miu Miu的「人物文化」，Miuccia Prada如何打造無物的優雅｜巴黎時裝週

1 month ago | vogue.com.tw | Luke Leitch |Travis Hung

「我們真的希望透過簡單的日常，通過對簡單單品的直接處理來創造一種“無物的優雅”。這些單品與大膽的女性氣質元素—珠寶、毛皮等—結合在一起，提升、賦予每一個造型重要性、價值和複雜性。」這是Miuccia Prada在今天下午巴黎Miu Miu 2025秋冬系列展示中，透過新聞稿總結的該系列的核心元素。這一系列充滿了對1950年代的參照，這正是Prada意識形態形成的年代，她的設計理念在這一季的展示中得到了完美呈現，其中也加入了一種額外的調味：選角。 Miu Miu的秀場總是以一種情緒呈現——這一季的情緒是「無物的優雅」，而這種情緒則通過Prada精心策劃的人物來傳遞。這不僅是時尚的展示，更像是一場舞台劇的製作。今天下午的秀場展示了來自各種社會層面的多樣化演員陣容。當然，秀場上有專業模特，但也有一群富有個性的時尚愛好者，包括Sarah Paulson、Towa Bird、Isabelle Albuquerque、Oscar Lesage、Suzanne Lindon和Towa Bird等人。今天走秀的許多非專業模特是首次亮相。但也有一些並非首次登場：Miu...