David Ellis

London

Editor, Going Out and Restaurant Critic at Evening Standard

one of a few fire marshals @EveningStandard also restaurant critic and editor of Going Out views my own

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Articles

Tom Brown at the Capital: He's showing off - and it suits him

1 week ago | standard.co.uk | David Ellis

Sign up for our expert view on everything that’s worth eating, drinking and queuing for in LondonI would like to be emailed about offers, event and updates from Evening Standard. Read our privacy notice. Review at a glance: ★★★★☆Attention is a light that sometimes burns. Understanding this is something the chef Tom Brown and the Capital hotel might recognise in each other.
Pastaio's Stevie Parle announced 'most ambitious restaurant yet', Town on Drury Lane

1 week ago | standard.co.uk | David Ellis

Sign up for our expert view on everything that’s worth eating, drinking and queuing for in LondonI would like to be emailed about offers, event and updates from Evening Standard. Read our privacy notice. Stevie Parle, the chef behind Pastaio and the now-closed JOY at Portobello Docks, is to open his long-awaited new restaurant on May 12. It will sit opposite the Gillian Lynne Theatre on Drury Lane, and is called Town.
The Crooked Billet was the UK's first gastropub — and is still one of its best

1 week ago | standard.co.uk | David Ellis

Going Out | Pubs, Bars and NightlifeThe celebrity credentials are impeccable, but it’s the food, wine and picturesque setting that make the Billet one of the country’s most perfect pubs, says David EllisDavid Ellis @dvh_ellis1 minute agoSign up for our expert view on everything that’s worth eating, drinking and queuing for in LondonI would like to be emailed about offers, event and updates from Evening Standard. Read our privacy notice.
Why London still rules the dining world

1 week ago | standard.co.uk | David Ellis

Sign up for our expert view on everything that’s worth eating, drinking and queuing for in LondonI would like to be emailed about offers, event and updates from Evening Standard. Read our privacy notice. Not a brag I suspect is heard in every town — you don’t imagine them belting it out on the beaches in Cleethorpes — but I think London can claim its place as the world’s greatest restaurant city.
London's best Japanese restaurant is almost unknown — except to the A-list

2 weeks ago | standard.co.uk | David Ellis

Going Out | RestaurantsLondon's oldest Japanese restaurant seems to be unknown to everyone but A-listers, says David EllisDavid Ellis @dvh_ellis1 minute agoSign up for our expert view on everything that’s worth eating, drinking and queuing for in LondonI would like to be emailed about offers, event and updates from Evening Standard. Read our privacy notice. Review at a glance: ★★★★☆Discretion and ostentation play at different ends of the pitch, though both draw crowds.
The best recipes for Easter, as chosen by the country's top chefs

2 weeks ago | standard.co.uk | David Ellis |Josh Barrie

Sign up for our expert view on everything that’s worth eating, drinking and queuing for in London I would like to be emailed about offers, event and updates from Evening Standard. Read our privacy notice. Spring has sprung, finally. It took its time. But now the daffodils are blooming and the lambs are bouncing across green hillsides we might allow ourselves to think that warmer weather is here and roasts may soon turn from beef to lamb, pork to hogget.
Tommy Banks's Easter recipe for hogget meatballs with mushroom sauce

2 weeks ago | standard.co.uk | David Ellis

It is an unfortunate, ugly word for what is rather beautiful-tasting meat. It refers to sheep that have aged between one and two years; the flavour is more pronounced than delicate lamb, but gentler than mutton. British hogget is also far more seasonally apt for Easter than British lamb, too, making it an ideal choice for a big Easter lunch.
Richard Corrigan's recipe for perfect roast lamb

2 weeks ago | standard.co.uk | David Ellis

Easter is, in fact, not the best time for British lamb. The truth of it is, the lamb in this country simply isn’t old enough to eat when the holiday rolls around; it needs more time to grow, more time to eat, more time for its flavour to develop. British lamb finds its finest form as the summer begins to tail off.
Country pub of the week: The Lamb Inn, Little Milton

2 weeks ago | standard.co.uk | David Ellis

Going Out | Pubs, Bars and NightlifeA favourite of the Le Manoir team, the Lamb is a biscuit box pub with big boy wine, says David EllisLamb InnDavid Ellis @dvh_ellis1 minute agoSign up for our expert view on everything that’s worth eating, drinking and queuing for in LondonI would like to be emailed about offers, event and updates from Evening Standard. Read our privacy notice. Sometimes refreshment begets refreshment.
Meet Super 8, the Londoners behind everyone's favourite restaurants

2 weeks ago | standard.co.uk | David Ellis

RestaurantsWhat’s the secret behind Super 8’s growing list of A-lister restaurants? David Ellis @dvh_ellis1 minute agoSongSoo Kim is looking ahead, clear-eyed. “Certainly, I think,” she says, “there’s a lot of work to do. For sure.” Kim is the head of sourcing and development for the most influential restaurant company nobody’s ever heard of, Super 8. Not famous, Super 8, but its restaurants are London A-listers, and easily up there with the city’s best: Mountain, Brat, Kiln, Smoking Goat.