Mike Sutter
Food Writer and Restaurant Critic at MYSA
Food Writer and Restaurant Critic at The San Antonio Express-News
San Antonio @ExpressNews restaurant critic. Former Austin @statesman critic. [email protected]
Articles
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2 days ago |
expressnews.com | Mike Sutter
In the middle of updating San Antonio's Top 25 Restaurants for 2025, I had a Roy Scheider moment. That one from "Jaws" when the shark rises with razored dread from the scarlet churn, and Scheider bolts up like a Marlboro marionette: "You're gonna need a bigger boat." It's been that kind of year, washed in the tears of closings and broken dreams. But that same primordial froth spawned an awakening wave. Michelin came to town, and Pullman Market. And homegrown omakase, and defiantly simple French.
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1 week ago |
expressnews.com | Mike Sutter
This is a story about the best (and worst) of what I ate in May. But it's also a story about standing in line for pizza. That's the story at Lovers Pizzeria these days, now at its new location on the southern edge of Monte Vista. Owners Dusty Dworak and Victoria Moreno make enough dough for 70 pizzas a day, and when that dough's gone, the "Sold Out" sign goes up. Forty-five minutes before they opened at 3 p.m. on a recent Thursday, the line was already more than 20 people deep.
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2 weeks ago |
expressnews.com | Mike Sutter
It's the skin I remember the most. It was hanging on the broken drive-thru glass like fruit roll-ups. I was 18, running the drive-thru at Jack in the Box at 3 in the morning. We were 24 hours, but the dining room closed at midnight, and a guy was walking through the drive-thru, something we didn't let people do. Because it's dangerous, because it's not enough weight to activate the speaker, and because it's something normal people just don't do. But there was nothing normal about drive-thru Hulk.
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2 weeks ago |
expressnews.com | Mike Sutter
When I was chronicling the timeless battle for the heart and soul of the puffy taco in San Antonio a few years back, I was minding my own business at Ray's Drive Inn when a guy at another table leaned over and said, "If you want a really good puffy taco, you should go to Oscar's."For him, for the shop's 30 employees, and for me - because Oscar's Taco House holds a place in my ranking of the city's Top 10 Puffy Tacos - the news isn't good.
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3 weeks ago |
expressnews.com | Mike Sutter
It's been a year since Pullman Market made ripples across the San Antonio scene when it opened at Pearl. A year that brought Michelin recognition to its dessert bar Nicosi, a year in which Isidore and Nicosi and Pullman's overall operation took three of the 10 best new restaurant slots, a year for Top 10 Italian at Fife & Farro and Top 10 recognition for Pullman's coffee and burger operations. Mezquite got lost in there, another Mexican restaurant in a city with hundreds of them.
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From Rebelle's lavish launch at the St. Anthony hotel to chef Stefan Bowers unceremonious firing in December, the restaurant's long and winding road takes another turn. https://t.co/2C1xENQyq5
For fans of the @MichelinGuideNA -recommended San Antonio barbecue joint @2m_smokehouse, here's a gift link to my @ExpressNews story on the rebranding of Blu Lacy Smokehouse as Castroville Barbecue Co. (It's an ownership split, but not the kind you think.) https://t.co/jfJc1jtodO
Can’t wait to see how they weave orange construction barrels into the narrative of “1923” as they film on the streets of San Antonio. https://t.co/aGitF9UQrT
