Grub Street

Grub Street offers a behind-the-scenes glimpse into the culinary world and its main contributors, acting as a helpful guide for enjoying meals both at home and in restaurants.

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A Pop-Up Called Pancakes Is a Cocktail Bar Inside S&P

1 day ago | grubstreet.com | Adam Reiner

A Pop-up Called Pancakes is a different kind of breakfast bar. The highly partisan debate over the proper name for the overgrown hot-dog-like meat logs from Trenton, New Jersey, has the potential to start fights. Whether one refers to the processed product by its original brand name from 1856, Taylor ham, or the generic term, pork roll, most Garden State residents aren’t likely to consider both names acceptable.
Mah-Ze-Dahr Evicted From West Village Location

2 days ago | grubstreet.com | Chris Crowley

The eviction notice has been posted to the front window of Mah-Ze-Dahr’s now-closed location in the West Village. Mah-Ze-Dahr, the high-end bakery known for its cheesecake and brownies, has been given the boot from its West Village location. A two-week eviction notice for the business was posted in April, and the storefront is now dark.
Chef Moosah Reaume Handles Room Service for the Met Gala

6 days ago | grubstreet.com | Zach Schiffman

Met Gala Monday is the biggest day of the year at the Carlyle, where dozens of celebrities descend pre- and post-glam — with their entourages and litany of dietary restrictions in tow. In charge of feeding them all this year was the hotel’s executive chef, Moosah Reaume.
Park Slope’s Pecking House Is Closing

6 days ago | grubstreet.com | Chris Crowley

Eric Huang says it might reopen, but it also might not. Tomorrow will be the last day to get a chile-chicken sandwich and dirty fried rice at the Park Slope location of Pecking House, the Sichuan-meets-southern fried-chicken spot — at least for a while. Rumors started bubbling up this week that the restaurant would close because of a rent dispute, but it sounds like something more complicated is afoot.
The City’s Best New Pancakes Are Stacked

1 week ago | grubstreet.com | Charlotte Druckman

They’re super fluffy, covered in compote, and finished with miso ice cream or salted egg yolks. Spots like Clinton St. Baking Co., Bubby’s, and Tom’s Restaurant in Prospect Heights may have been the pioneers of covetable pancakes, but just about eight years ago, when Sunday in Brooklyn and Chez Ma Tante both opened their doors, the news spread like hazelnut syrup over a pile of malted flapjacks: The pancakes are coming, the pancakes are coming.
Lucien Smith Brings Back Food

1 week ago | grubstreet.com | Madeline Leung Coleman

No one would accuse Lucien Smith of being original, least of all Smith himself. “I’ve always role-played as a painter, role-played as a fine artist,” he says, swiveling in a chair in his studio. “I don’t know how much of it is genuine and how much of it is an act. Maybe the whole thing.” His earliest public role was wunderkind, which he took on in 2011 when he shot out of art school, Supreme beanie askew, and started selling work that flipped at auction for nearly $400,000.
Aimee France Prefers Her Butter Cold

1 week ago | grubstreet.com | Emma Alpern

Aimee France, maker of artfully bumpy and leaning cakes with ingredients like Earl Grey, calendula, and cognac–tonka bean buttercream, didn’t necessarily expect to become a full-time baker. But when COVID interrupted her college semester, she ended up back at her parents’ house, where she taught herself how to bake. “When I graduated in 2021, my parents were like, ‘All right, Aimee, time to get a job,’” she says.
Momofuku’s Pan-Caribbean Kabawa

2 weeks ago | grubstreet.com | Matthew Schneier

Kabawa is a new kind of restaurant for the company — one devoted to the many cuisines of the Caribbean. Stock in good feeling is sinking of late. An atmosphere of headache prevails. The markets, the mood, the outlook: low, low, low. That’s a lot to heap on a restaurant, especially one down an East Village cul-de-sac: Oh, look, another dead end.
How One Chef’s Bankruptcy Filing Explains Restaurant Debt

2 weeks ago | grubstreet.com | Chris Crowley

Ryan Hardy in 2019. Vinny Milburn runs the seafood wholesaler Greenpoint Fish and Lobster, and he’s used to restaurant owners who don’t pay for their fish on time: “I joke that I am not a seafood provider — I’m a source of capital who offers a zero percent interest loan.” This is because chefs don’t buy ingredients like most people. Restaurants run on credit lines.
Chef Roy Choi’s ‘Grub Street Diet’

2 weeks ago | grubstreet.com | Alan Sytsma

Choi was in New York last week for the launch of his new cookbook. Roy Choi is a food-world legend, the chef behind Kogi BBQ, a regular presence on Netflix, and a verified member of California cooking’s Mount Rushmore. He’s also the author of the new cookbook The Choi of Cooking, which arrives more than a decade after his first, L.A. Son: “It’s 12 years between books — whenever you take that much time between something, it’s like, Do people even remember?